FINAL PROJECT: BACKGROUND RESEARCH

Black dresses in previous centuries

Black colour has its place in fashion for centuries. It has always been loaded with symbolism and has taken on many meanings throughout the course of history. It is an extreme colour associated with such feeling as fear or fascination, and with negative images like darkness, death, mourning, and evil. 

In this post, I want to talk about black dresses in the 16th, 17th, 18th, 19th and 20th century.

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16th-century

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The colour of clothing said a lot about the status. Black clothing was a symbol of wealth. As solid, black dye was very expensive and complicated to produce.

In 16th century France, Diane de Poitiers has become renowned for her dramatic black-and-white gowns. (an exemplary dress is shown in the photo on the left)

Black has also been a colour worn as a symbol of mourning. This tradition has been started by Queen Elizabeth after St. Bartholomew’s Day massacre. 

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17th-century

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The first decade of the 17th century was a continuation of 16th-century trends with some changes in details.

Typical for the 16th and 17th century was the fashion for dressing all in black, except for an accent of white at collar and cuffs.

The black colour was still as expensive as in the 16th century so it was only available for the upper-class.

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18th-century

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Black morning dresses started to get popular. Wealthy people all around Europe were able to pay a fortune to incorporate aristocratic etiquette into their own lives.

During this century, black was also a representation of romance and artistry.

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19th-century

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In the 19th century black as the colour of mourning dress became a general custom when chemical dyes made it possible to mass-produce black fabric.

'During Victorian times, the type of mourning dress and the length of time one wore it was circumscribed by etiquette instead of sumptuary laws.' (Monet, 2011)

The end of the 19th century was a time of many provocative changes in the world of fashion. Black started to be perceived as erotic. That's why "Portrait of Madame X" caused a sensation. Especially because the shoulder strap of Madame Gautreau's glamorous dress was falling down.

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20th-century

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This century was mostly about Coco Chanel and her famous Little Black Dress which turned into an icon of 20th-century fashion. 

During World War I, black was a dominant colour because millions of women were mourning. However, it was also still recognised as fashionable. 

In the 20th century, we also see the presence of, for example, Balenciaga and Givenchy and their influence on fashion.

Reference:

A short history of the colour black in fashion - and our infatuation with it. (2019) [Online] Fq.co.nz. Available from: https://www.fq.co.nz/fashion-history-of-the-colour-black-new-zealand/ [Accessed 04/13/21].

The Kyoto Costume Institute Fashion in colors: Black - the Kyoto costume institute - Google arts & culture. [Online] Google.com. Available from: https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/fashion-in-colors-black/VwLim1aKX3avKw [Accessed 04/13/21].

Bass, T.L. (2018) Dressed in Black: 16th Century. [Online] Frockflicks.com. Available from: http://www.frockflicks.com/dressed-in-black-16th-century/ [Accessed 04/13/21].

Let there be the darkest shade of black!. [Online] Fashionologiahistoriana.com. Available from: https://www.fashionologiahistoriana.com/costume-history-legends-essays-in-english/let-there-be-the-darkest-shade-of-black [Accessed 04/13/21].

De Young, J. 1600-1609. [Online] Fitnyc.edu. Available from: https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1600-1609/ [Accessed 04/13/21].

Monet, D. (2011) History of the mourning dress: Black clothing worn during bereavement. [Online] Bellatory. Available from: https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/FashionHistoryMourningDressBlackClothingWornDuringBereavement [Accessed 04/13/21].